Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Gaijin in Nihon

Today is my first day going home to an empty apartment in Tokyo, if El Hombre made his flight back to the States. Due to cancelled flights and oversales, he was stuck here two more days than he intended (and I guess I'll find out if he actually made it home to Cali when I get home to an empty or not empty apartment tonight) so we spent the last few days strolling through this mega-metropolis, eating sushi and ramen and other yummy Japanese items. Before El Hombre arrived, my brother spent a week in Tokyo with me, mostly sick with a fever and a cold. So I've had something (someone) very tangible from home ever since I arrived. If El Hombre made it home today, it will be my first night by myself. And so...I feel the first signs of homesickness, since all remnants of home have left.

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I have a persistent cough that refuses to go away. I've concluded that either 1) I have swine flu, 2) the constant change in temperatures from hot & humid outside to moderately air conditioned in my office to super air conditioned in my apartment is irritating my respiratory system, 3) I am allergic to Tokyo.

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There are some things about Tokyo that I really love. The cabs have automatic doors so you don't have to struggle with opening it while you are carrying your bag, briefcase, etc. When people obey the rules, things are so much more efficient. You can find something (good) to eat pretty much anytime you want. There are vending machines everywhere so you will never go thirsty. Even the mediocre sushi here is better than the best sushi in SF(although Sushi Sasabune in Oahu is still my absolute favorite). The trains and buses are always on time. People are unfailingly polite (which can be burdensome at times, but when you think about it, over-politeness is preferable to rudeness - the US has so many rude people...but I haven't run into a single rude person here yet). There are very few chances to overeat here because portion sizes are small (or teeny tiny). And finally...Japan is sooo Japanese. And the mannerisms, intricacies and oddities unique to Japanese culture amuse me to no end.

However, I foresee a major culture clash between Nihon and I in the upcoming year: I am perhaps abnormally direct/blunt but the Nihonjin are perhaps abnormally indirect/roundabout. They will never tell you no. They will never start a sentence with: "I think....", even if you've directly asked what they think. They will always say: perhaps...maybe...if you agree...

I know that when in Rome, do as Romans do...but I find the indirectness/roundaboutness really inefficient, insincere and all around not very useful. So far it's really the only cultural difference I truly worry about, but it seems like a pretty big one to me.

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